Can you really say you’ve been to Bergen if you haven’t tried the fish soup? We have spoken to an expert to find out the secret of this dish – and why it is so popular.
Norway is a proud fisheries nation, and Bryggen in Bergenis perhaps the most prominent symbol of our thriving fishing culture. As the heart of the Norwegian fish trade for 800 years, the city has developed some fantastic dishes.
What sets Bergen fish soup apart?
Gaute Birkeli is manager of Bryggeloftet & Stuene, a family-run restaurant with long, local traditions – on Bryggen, naturally. He tells us that although fish soup is eaten all over Norway, there are a few features that have historically characterised "Bergen fish soup".
‘Bergen fish soup has developed over time, and many people have their own version of this dish, but the mainstay is that it is made from the bones of young saithe. This fish is not fished commercially to any extent, so if you eat Bergen fish soup in a restaurant, it is unlikely to be made from young saithe,’ he explains.
Birkeli has also delved into the archives and dusted down a few old recipes. One rather strange ingredient crops up again and again:
‘Another common ingredient was pickled purslane. Purslane is a herb-like plant that looks a little bit like baby spinach, with thick stalks and leaves. Purslane is an old cultivated plant, which is not used as much as it once was.’
Popular dish
A great deal has been written about fish soup from Bergen. Birkeli praises the people of Bergen for being ambassadors of their local soup.
‘It’s a very popular dish among the locals, and people come from far and wide to eat our fish soup,’ he says, explaining how it is served in the restaurant:
‘Traditional Bergen fish soup has a slightly sweet and sour taste so we season it with vinegar and sugar. There’s an ongoing debate about what should be in the soup, but we use finely shredded vegetables, fish balls with trimmings, and a little sour cream and ordinary cream.
Gaute’s best fish soup tips
If you are going to make fish soup yourself at home, Birkeli has the following advice.
The secret is good stock. ‘It all starts with fish bones. Use good ingredients and lean fish. If you can get hold of young saithe, that’s great. Otherwise all kinds of white fish work – we use saithe, haddock and cod.’
Take your time. ‘Don’t stress when you make the soup. Find a good fish stock recipe and take the time to do it right.’
Season with cream when you’re done. ‘There’s not much more to it, but a little cream gives it a nice finish, and will make your soup creamy and delicious!’
When you visit Bergen, you will find Bergen fish soup served in many restaurants at a wide range of prices. You will find it served in traditional restaurants like Bryggeloftet & Stuene and Søstrene Hagelin, as well as variations on this classic dish at new, more modern restaurants such as Cornelius Sjømatrestaurant or Lysverket.
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